A Few Kilians

I may sound like I am a shill for Kilian perfumes but believe me, I am not. I like the brand, enjoy the perfumes, the counter at Harvey Nichols has very friendly SAs who know their stuff and I like being sent samples of new releases directly to my home. But I don't think the price of £150 for 50 mls is justifiable at all. Fortunately for my wallet, I am not compelled to buy all the perfumes. There are perfumes that leave me unthrilled but those which do thrill me, I am compelled to buy. I am living through refills, decants and samples which doesn't sound too luxe but it is a great way to experience these perfumes and the fact that the brand actually offers to buy these at a lesser price is plus. 

My Kilian wish list: refills of Love, Straight To Heaven, Good Girl Gone Bad and a big bottle of Back to Black (running out of my refills). I have been holding out on reviewing Straight to Heaven and Love for a long time in the hope that I may end up buying a refill set but it doesn't look like it is going to happen in near future considering my finances. Some concise reviews, just to whet my appetite for these!

By Kilian: Flower Of Immortality

This newest of the Kilian perfumes is very young and fresh. It begins with an effervescent peach note, very crisp and very succulent. I get some sweetness from black currant along with peach making it fruitier and juicier. There is some powderyness from iris giving it a cold, clean vibe. It is clean, peachy and powdery. Somewhere down the line, it turns into a shampoo smell (fresh-out-of-the-salon hair smell). The dry down is all shampoo and it lasts for a long time (10+ hours). If you like fruity perfumes, you'll love it. If you like peachy perfumes, you'll adore it. It is so not for me. I am underwhelmed that it turned out to smell like shampoo.

Love 

Don't Be Shy

"A Marshmallow inspiration, sweetened with orange blossom from Morocco. At first soft and tender, it unfolds into the intensity that graces truly great seductresses. Top notes of glorious Neroli from Tunisia are like a shy, tentative kiss given by fresh lips. At the heart of the fragrance, Sambac Jasmine caresses skin warm with Turkish Rose and Iris of Florence, reaching ecstasy in the embrace of vanilla and musk."

This is Kilian's take on the good old marshmallow. I can say that this isn't a regular marshmallow. It is probably the most upscale and exquisite marshmallow that I wish I could put in my hot chocolate. Love is actually a love affair of big white florals with a generous sweet side, sweet in a luscious, creamy way.  The flowers are pretty, velvety jasmine, powdery iris and a prominent orange blossom that shines through the whole concoction. But the heart of this fragrance is its sweetness. The burnt sugar, the candy floss, the bubble gum. Oh yes, there is all that. But well tamed and well rounded by the florals. The musky vanilla also makes me think of turkish delight/musk lollies. It dries down into a pleasantly sweet floral, more floral than sweet which I love. When I first wore it, I could have sworn it had incense because of a kind of intensity I got from it, reminiscent of Montale's Mukhallat (but much more likeable and wearable). May be the incense feel I get is from musk or it may be the civet. 

Overall, Love is an upscale sweet perfume that is ultra feminine and very sophisticated. It is very long lasting and has a huge projection. It is well worth the refill price.

Straight To Heaven

White Cristal

"The alliance with the Patchouli of Indonesia, warm and deep, hides a mystery deepened by Nutmeg from Java, Cedar from Atlas and Brazilian Rosewood. This sensual scent leads us into an artificial paradise of pleasure."

While Love is an upscale marshmallow, StH is an upscale bay rum scent, just so delightful and refreshing. Bay rum perfumes usually make me think of grogg swilling, unclean sea men smelling of fish. But StH makes me think of a wet, hot guy, just off his yacht, with his white shirt unbuttoned to show off his muscles, walking barefooted on the white Caribbean sands! Sexy! StH opens with the bay rum accord, dry and aromatic, slightly smoky also. The nutmeg is prominent and perks up the rum to make it lighter, fresher. The woodiness, mostly from cedar, anchors the scent down while keeping with its refreshing side. On my skin, patchouli is barely there, if present at all. The dry down is really swoon worthy, a nutmeg spiced bay rum and smells very sexy on my skin. This is one masculine fragrance I would love to wear, which is such a rarity for me. Perfect for sultry beach days!

Conjure Oils 'El Sol'

Sample A Day Review: Day#21

El Sol (The Sun)  

Conjure Oils

Collection: Loteria

General Catalogue

Samples (pips) available

"bright citrus notes and hot clove melt together with a iridescent splash of golden amber. Surround yourself with an irresistible glow" 

El Sol smells like lemon when wet. Then it turns creamy and becomes a sweet lemon candy. It is still a nice lemon at this point but that changes when amber emerges. Amber is too perfume-y for my liking and makes the lemon a bit bitter. Dry down is a lemony amber, nice-ish but I am not feeling the love. 
If you like lemony perfumes with depth you may like El Sol. Conjure Oils has some other awesome perfumes. 'Mara' is up there in top 5 of honey scents for me.

Poison Apple Apothecary 'White Queen's Bouquet'

Sample A Day Review: Day #20

White Queen's Bouquet

Poison Apple Apothecary

Alice In Wonderland Collection

Limited Edition

This vial is from 2010

"A gentle facade of good. What lies under the perfect veneer of the White Queen? Is it too good to be true? Her blend is a lush powdery floral, feminine in every way with notes of Jasmine, Rosehips, Vanilla, and whispery white powder"

This is a lush floral bouquet, very creamy and very soft. Smelt wet, it is a sweet floral. On my skin, it is still sweet but the pretty flowers start to emerge. I pick up some jasmine, but it is mostly a combination of indistinct but nicely blended white florals to my nose. It is not one of those in-your-face, screechy florals. I am amazed by how smooth and velvety it is. I don't get any powder, even if there is any, it is gently mingled with the sweet florals. Vanilla is the reason for how soft the perfume smells. The dry down is of beautiful creamy flowers, very soothing and very feminine. It wears beautifully on me but stays close to the skin. Lasts a few hours too. This one needs watching out for in case it is re-released. If so, grabbing a full bottle for sure.

Birthday!

Yesterday was my birthday, May The Fourth and all. Not too thrilled about it and not too thrilled about life in general. I am going through an uncomfortable phase where there is neither money nor career and lack of stability (constant moving from one place to another) is making me tired and anxious. That is why I haven't been blogging much lately. Instead of focusing on all the things that is making me go nuts, I'll just focus on things that's making me happy.

We went to Scotland for a week, an early birthday present from my husband. It was a wonderful.
I got a few thrifty birthday gifts for myself, some Chanel makeup and Penhaligon's perfume.

I redeemed my Boots points for Chanel makeup, which means I got the foundation for free! I think Vitalumiere Aqua is worth every rave review on the internet. It is light but gives an ideal coverage and a lovely natural finish. I was matched with B50 (I am NW30 in MAC) and it looks like second skin.

Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua in B50
Chanel Les Beiges powder in 40

I also got the limited edition Chanel Les Beiges powder in the shade 40. I think it is something about the undertone that makes it a tad more golden for my skin. I can use it as a very subtle bronzer or for contouring. But it has a nice matte finish, no shimmer, just a glow. It feels so luxurious on my skin. It smells like the perfume Les Beige from Chanel's Exclusif range. It is a lovely honeyed floral, a very soft and gentle smell. I love the packaging too. It is something of a keepsake thing. Perfect gift really.

Chanel Les Beiges Powder

Continuing my thrift journey, I got a 100ml splash bottle of Penhaligon's Ellenisia at the outlet in Bicester Village for a meagre ₤15! Ellenisia is so gorgeous. It is a lush white floral with a prominent and natural tuberose presence. It is so feminine and elegant.

The gift that made me feel the most special was this lovely Dragonfly broach sent to my Nadja (La Domna) and it is handmade by her. I love the delicate gold and black wiring on it. It looks good worn with any outfit. You can buy it from her Etsy store here. Thank you Nadja!

On my last birthday, I wished to go back in time to relive my childhood. That wish really did come true when I visited my parents last year (and I didn't have to travel at the speed of light to the edge of the solar sysytem and back again!). It really felt like my childhood with so much love and care. I wish that this kind of happiness repeats again and again.

Lovely Smellies From Lovely People!

Thank you Amanda (Iris Handmade Soaps), for sending me your soaps. I feel so special to try them! And for Solstice Scents samples, they are all so good!

Thanks Dee (365 Dyas of Smells), for spoiling me some awesome perfumes! 

 These two packages totally made my day. I am so grateful for the friends I have on interwebs. Thanks again ladies ♥

Perfume Oil Collection

So, here goes my indie perfume oil collection!

You can see my collection as it was last year here. Compare for yourself how much I have let go of and how much I have gained. The links under the picture take you to the review.

Haus Of Gloi: Honey Tree, Vice, Troika, Licorice Chew

Ava Luxe: Loukhoum, Love's True Bluish Light

The Morbid The Merrier:
Horman, Delina

BPAL: 13 August '08, Gaillo, German Expressionist Horror

BPAL: Absinthe, Black Phoenix, Bliss, Fae, Kali, Rose Red

BPAL: Snake Oil, Womb Furie (and back ups)

BPAL: Jerusalem Cherry Honey, Paduan Killer Swarm, Hemlock Honey, Oleander Honey

BPAL: Slaugh, Pomegranate IV, Pumpkin Latte, Boo!, Ghoulish

BPAL: Red Lantern. Khajuraho, Berry Moon, Gypsy, Enraged Orangutan Musk, Smut

The Garden Bath: Chocolate Passion
Nocturne Alchemy: Netherworld
Smell Bent: Gelty Pleasures
Darling Clandestine: Maudlin And Bedlam

Ajmal: Liquid Gold, Mukhallat Burj
Heaven and Earth Essentials: Pumpkin Honey
Violette Market: Watermelon Honey
Conjure Oils: Mara
Possets: Honey

Villainess: Jaimahal

Twyla Perfumes: Slammerkin, Milk Flower, Spirit Of Christmas Past

Firebird: Almond Milk, Woodsmoke Vanilla
Love Potion: Honey Ho, Hot Honeyed Fig
Hayward Enterprises dupe oil: L de Lolita Lempica

 Non Indie Oils:

Kiehl's Musk and Amber
Mor: Belladona
Natio: Champa Attar

The Body Shop: White Musk, Juba Juba

Finally, all my samples!

I found these boxes at the stationery shop (the pink and purple boxes). They are perfect for keeping sample vials. The two round boxes are empty body butter ones which I find very useful too.

ETA: This is where I store my perfume oils. All the bottles just fit in one plastic box and it doesn't even take much space to store. It is tucked away in a cupboard shelf, safe and snug!

Frederic Malle: L'Eau D'Hiver

Spring, the doomsday for snowmen
Source: gocomics.com

L'eau D'Hiver, 'the water of winter' is more of a 'waiting for daffodils' kind of scent than a cold winter one. It makes me think of the last few days of winter: the thawing snow, days getting longer, anticipation of spring flowers and warmth slowly creeping into chilly days. L'eau D'Hiver is so delicate and fragile like freshly melted snow.

"A fragrance entirely one's own –– clean, crisp, but  also warm, an endless source of reassurance. The transparence of water binds with the softness of white heliotrope, iris and honey for the gentlest composition imaginable." Frederic Malle

This is my first close encounter with Heliotrope, both as a note and otherwise, not having smelt the flowers in real life. I find Heliotrope in this to be quite powdery but with a 'bite' of something anisic/almond/cherry-like. Not that these are palpably present here but I get that sensation, perhaps due to the Heliotropin. It reminds me of the beginning of Lolita Lempica, only heliotrope takes a fresh powdery direction in this rather than a totally different sweet one that it takes in Lolita Lempica. The heliotrope blends with clean, cold Iris and fresh, green Angelica giving the illusion of a cool water. It is transparent indeed. It is powdery but the powder is so gentle, more like pollen covering the dew laden fresh flowers. In the dry down the heliotrope diffuses and remains as a soft powder, blended with cold, dry iris and even softer musk. This stage it reminds me of Infusion d'Iris of Prada which I love with all my heart but L'eau D'Hiver is crisper, more delicate and more watery.

L'Eau D'Hiver is a real pleasure to wear. It is light, sheer and gracefully feminine. It stays for a long time on me but stays close to the skin making it even more delicate and enjoyable. It is a perfect springtime perfume. I can see myself wearing this a lot in this transition month from cold to warm weather and also for much needed freshness in the heat. I am loving every drop of my 5ml miniature that came in a coffret. If I could afford, I would buy a full bottle right away. 

S-A-D #19 : Sweet Anthem 'Miranda'

Sample-A-Day Review: Day 19

Miranda

Sweet Anthem

From the vault (past LE)

"We fall, but our souls are flying. A baleful blend of banded peppers and woods, tragically impaled with bloodshot immortelle blossoms.

Notes: Black Agar, Cocoa Absolute, Immortelle, Pink Pepper, White Agar, White Pepper"

Smelling directly from the sample, I get pepper. It is very fresh but a bit sharp. Dabbed in the back of my hand, pepper is more noticeable and there is undeniable presence of agar wood. The oud smells rich and kind of comforting actually. Oud and pepper, once they settle, become milder and gentler leaving behind a fragrant woody aroma. There is only a little chocolate, which smells more like white chocolate rather than dark or sweet chocolate. The hay-like immortelle adds a soft base. Chocolate and Immortelle don't add any sweetness per se but diffuse the harshness of peppery oud. I like this contrast very much. Everything comes together in the dry down which is a spiced soft aromatic oud.

Miranda is leans more towards a masculine fragrance. I can see myself wearing it but it would suit a man better. It must be the pepper and oud giving that vibe. Oud in this, like in many other Sweet Anthem perfumes, is light and gentle (plus doesn't give me a headache). It is a limited edition and no longer available for purchase.

The Alchemical Phoenixes

Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab comes up with limited blends of perfume oils every year to commemorate the Lab's anniversary. There are so many 'Phoenixes' which is a reminder of how long BPAL has been around. These are hard to find and quite a hit with collectors. I could get my hands on some decants and sniffies, thanks to lovely Dee. It is really nice to know and experience what they smell like though I wouldn't be hunting these down to get full bottles. Here are my brief thoughts on the Phoenixes.

Copper Phoenix
BPAL Anniversary 2009/2010
Limited Edition
Rose-infused dark amber, with sweet orange, honey, cardamom, patchouli, apricot, pink pepper, and red sandalwood
in the imp, it is fresh and sweet, not sugary-sweet but a freshly-squeezed-orange sweet. Orange is refreshing with a dash of honey and hint of fresh pink pepper. It dries down to a combination of powdery amber and sandalwood while still retaining the freshness of sweet orange. A lovely combination.

Red Phoenix
BPAL anniversary 2005
Limited Edition
A celebration of three years of decadence, determination, death and rebirth. Red musk, tonka, Chinese cassia, mandarin, patchouli, benzoin, wild plum and tobacco
A very prominent musk to begin with, the Lab's famous Red Musk note. Rich deep and very sensual. On the skin a smoky tobacco note emerges followed by a flash of something a light spicy note which could be the cinnamon-y cassia bark. The cinnamon becomes very smooth and blends well into the mildly boozed benzoin. The dry down is a cinammony musk, very warm, kind of delicious!

Wood Phoenix
BPAL Anniversary 2008
Limited Edition
Flexibility, cooperation, expansiveness, and altruism: Chinese musk and five woods with newly budding bamboo shoots, hyssop, chamomile, pink clove, magnolia, walnut, and fig.
A sweet and fresh musk in the imp. On the skin it becomes very green. I get bamboo shoots and green fig with a blast of magnolia. It is a fresh green clean floral and the musk element adds a perfume-y dimension to it. It is very nice and reminds me of Sweet Anthem's Anastasia.

Water Phoenix
BPAL Anniversary 2008
Limited Edition
Compassion, eloquence, introspection: Chinese musk and rain, with salty oceanic notes, frankincense, juniper berry, lily of the valley, lavender, cinquefoil, and sweet pea.
Smells very fresh in the vial. It does smell like rain and salt water. Incense adds a cool touch. The floral element is nice though I can't pick out any flower in particular. The juniper berry is a bit much for my taste and same with lavender but I understand why they are here and they do blend well with rest of the fresh concoction. It is a fresh skin scent and a delightful one. It is like the upscale and well made version of generic 'China Rain' like perfumes. Perfect for summer.

Phoenix In Summer
Seasonal Phoenix 2010/11
Limited Edition
The Phoenix soars through a summer thunderstorm: Nepalese amber, galangal, red musk, saffron, ozone, and the scent of hot rain striking pavement
I only have a sniffie of this, which means it is an empty vial just enough to get the feel of the scent. It smells powdery in the vial, that must be the amber.  It does smell somewhat like cement/footpath but it is too little smelling experience to put a finger on it. There must have been an interesting scent in this vial.

Pink Phoenix
BPAL Anniversary 2005
Limited Edition
Silliness in the extreme. Vanilla bean, honeycomb, sugared pear, sweet pea and a dribble of strawberry
Another sniffie thingie. This is very sweet in the vial. Powdery honey, very juicy strawberries. It smells somewhat like strawberry coulis syruped in honey instead of sugar. It is not repulsively sweet though. If I had a bottle, I would go with an occasional dab or two.

Makeup Collection: Blushes

Makeup and perfume are my two obsessions. I talk almost exclusively about perfumes in this blog but there is less of makeup talk. Perhaps, I should talk more about makeup. Last year when I moved continents, I gave away/sold almost 1/3rd of my makeup. Now I am left with a manageable stash. My makeup buying has reduced a lot. In the past 6 months, I have only bought about £50 worth makeup, mostly essentials. It makes me want to use the stuff I already have and love.

I've been meaning to do makeup inventory posts (inspired by Liz). Look forward to some photo heavy posts in future. 

Here goes my blush collection. Be warned, you may see a lot of peachy shades!

Ben Nye Cream Blush in Dusty Pink
Becca Beach Tint in Grapefruit

Ben Nye Cream Blush is super pigmented like all other Ben Nye things. Just a dab on each cheek will do and being creamy it spreads well to give a powdery finish. 

Becca Beach Tint is sheerer and ideal for a subtle, barely there flushed look.

NARS Multiple in Angelika 

Angelika is a bright pink with gold bits in it. It is a great shade when used light handedly. I don't quite like the texture of this. It feels a bit waxy and I prefer creamy. 

Napoleon Perdis Blush Patrol
Bobbi Brown Shimmer Bricks in Nectar and Pink

Napoleon Perdis Blush Patrol is luminous and gives a great colour. It borders a bronzish red which may look ruddy if not blended well.
Bobbi Brown Shimmer Bricks are my favourite cheek products ever! Nectar is a great peachy/coral shade and love it. Pink is more of a highlight shade for my skin tone.

iNuovi Thumbelina (yay, hit the pan!)
Natio in Peach Glow
L'Oreal True Match Blush in Rosewood

iNuovi and Natio are both almost the same shade of peach but iNuovi has more shimmer and Natio is more of a sheen. L'Oreal Rosewood shows up on my skintone and makes me look like I am wearing blush but in a good way.

MAC Sheertone Shimmer Blush in Springsheen
Sleek blush in Rose Gold

I love this MAC blush, very natural looking on me and quite glowy. Sleek Rose Gold is my poor girl's substitute for NARS Orgasm. I like this and have no plans of buying Orgasm anytime soon.

Clinique Quick Blush In-A-Rush-Blush
L'Oreal Blush Minerals Soft Peach

Clinique Quick blush is actually great for handbag and it doesn't spill. The colour is again a peachy shade. I am not too fond of the L'Oreal one but I do use it because it is a safe shade.

Sassy Mineral Blushes 

Love these blushes. They are have really fine shimmer and nicely pigmented. Celebrity is my most worn one. 

Benefit Thrrrob and Coralista

Thrrrob is more of a highlighter for my colouring. It has a lavender/pinkish hue which actually brightens my skin. Coralista is beautiful peachy gold and smells like passion fruit! It is the best complement blush with any bronzer.

L.A. Minerals Flushed and Pink Du Jour

These are my newest addition. I think they are okay. Flushed is a bit chalky but Pink Du Jour is soft and powdery. Both have nice pigment.

And that's it! I know the photos are not the best but it is the best I can get in the dim, glum weather. Next up: Bronzers!