'Elegant', 'Polished', 'Chic', 'Simple', 'Muted'.... not usually the words I would use to describe my favourite perfume (don't know what that says about me!) Prada's Infusion d'Iris is all that and more. But I like it because it is a charming perfume that is neatly made and it wears beautifully on me.
|Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP|
|A rundown of notes on the side of the carton|
Infusion d'Iris is a mild and muted perfume but a well made one. It is one of those perfumes that I perceive to unfold in layers. Layer after layer, it reveals something very beautiful: first a fresh layer, then a green one, then a powdery one and finally a woody incense layer.
It opens with a Neroli/Orange Blossom note, mentioned as two separate notes which has the fresh and crisp aspect of orange blossom along with some bitterness from Neroli. The freshness paves the way for all the greenness that is yet to come. Then the frangrance becomes very green. The galbanum is light and not heavy. The Lentisque (Mastic) note never ceases to intrigue me. I'm just beginning to appreciate it in fragrances (Eau D'Ikar, Untitled). Lentisque in Infusion d'Iris is quite prominent and enhances the greenness without weighing it down.
Iris is an exotic smell to me. The only kind of iris I have smelt is the day old water spritzed, refrigerated ones from the florist and they smell like nothing. So, my only reference but a pretty good one for iris is the Iris Butter, the raw material from Guerlain (used in Iris Ganache) that I had the opportunity to smell a while ago. It is my gold standard. Orris root is the aromatic rhizome of the iris plant that gives a precious concentrate used in perfumery for its iris smell. I can never forget how Guerlain's Iris Butter smelt. It was the smell of paper, earthy, somewhat green and powdery. It did remind me of the 'makeup smell'. Iris in Infusion d'Iris smells complementary to the greennes of galbanum and lentisque but has a sweet, floral and a powdery character. Powdery, not like baby powder or old lady powder or soapy powder, somewhat like a luxury powder that is light and feminine.
The powdery iris merges seamlessly into a base of woods, undeniably cedarwood the woodiness of which takes over the fragrance. It also has hints of vetiver making it fresher and lighter. The best part of the dry down is the beautiful incense that forms a delicate lattice on which the whole fragrance stands.
To sum up the smell in a sentence, it is an amazing mild composition of green powdery iris on cedar and incense base. It doesn't stay long (mine is an EDP) and stays close to the skin. It immediately brings to mind Chanel N º19 Poudre and Maison Martin Margiela (untitled). Chanel Nº19 Poudre is a newer iris based composition (2011) which to my nose is similar to Infusion d'Iris but heavily green due to the 'oiliness' of glabanum on my skin and more powdery than Infusion d'Iris. I prefer the Infusion over it. MMM (untitled) is comparable due to the green component, only (untitled) is greener, fresher and not powdery at all.
Infusion d'Iris translates elegance and chicness into a perfume in an understated kind of way. It is fresh, light and a dainty perfume that is often referred to as boring and inoffensive. May be it is to a certain extent boring and inoffensive but something in it makes me go for it. Maybe it is the powder and the green composition, maybe it is the incense, or just that it is well made. I am not really a fashionable person but if I could associate this fragrance with a look, it would be streamlined, clean yet something easy, like this.